How the rich telegraph power

Publish date: 2024-05-06

Explore More

When Gwyneth Paltrow paraded more than $25,000 of designer gear at her eight-day ski crash trial last month, there wasn’t a double G, interlocking C or Medusa head logo in sight.

Instead, the Goop founder donned a series of understated luxury looks in salubrious shades of bone broth and protein powder. 

Enter the era of stealth-wealth dressing, where “Buy high, look low-key” is the philosophy.

Classic shapes, subtle detailing, muted colors and the finest materials are assets, while flashy prints, conspicuous monograms, tight fits and synthetic fabrics are liabilities.

In other words, you don’t want to look like you’re trying too hard.

That’s why a horrified Tom Wambsgans dismissed the large Burberry plaid bag that Cousin Greg’s date, Bridget, brought to Logan Roy’s birthday party on the Season 4 premiere of “Succession” as “ludicrously capacious.”

If there’s a cinematic icon of “rich bitch” style, it would be Cate Blanchett’s character in the recent film “Tár.” With refined tailoring and sophisticated colorways, formidable conductor Lydia Tár’s wardrobe exudes money and power. 

Gwyneth Paltrow donned a series of understated luxury looks for her eight-day ski crash trial last month. POOL/AFP via Getty Images
A horrified Tom Wambsgans dismissed the large Burberry plaid bag that Cousin Greg’s date, Bridget, brought to Logan Roy’s birthday party on the Season 4 premiere of “Succession” as “ludicrously capacious.” HBO

“Embracing aspirational fashion means there is a shift in the consumer to focus on investing in high-quality fashion items,” says Willow Lindley, accessories and collaborations director at Vogue.

But, as Bridget learned with her $2,900 bag, costliness does not necessarily equate class.

“Logomania is the wardrobe equivalent of a thirst trap,” says Erik Maza, executive style director for Town & Country. “It’s desperate for attention. Craftsmanship doesn’t try so hard.”

If there’s a cinematic icon of “rich bitch” style, it would be Cate Blanchett’s character in the recent film “Tár.”  ©Focus Features/Courtesy Everett Collection

We asked Lindley, Maza and Harper’s Bazaar accessories director Miguel Enamorado to identify the new sartorial signifiers of high net worth.

Their advice: Invest in elevated basics from the one percent’s go-to labels. Think Hermès, Celine, Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli, Max Mara and Paltrow favorite The Row, the minimalist line founded by twin millionaires Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen.

Here, our fashion experts share their recommendations for eight hero pieces that will make you look like a billion bucks.

ELITE OUTERWEAR

The iconic $4,350 Max Mara camel coat.

A cult camel coat for the cognoscenti, Max Mara’s “101801” is quietly known for its generous proportions, lustrous cashmere and beaver wool cloth and puntino stitching. “The last word in outerwear is the venerable Italian label Max Mara,” says Town & Country’s Maza. “Its coats are forever.” Queen Sofía of Spain, Claire Danes and Cate Blanchett have wrapped themselves in this discreet $4,350 winter essential.

RARIFIED FRAMES  

The $795 limited-edition, handcrafted-in-Japan “Enzo” is available until it sells out. Jacques Marie Mage

“Succession” scion Kendall Logan Roy shades his eyes in Jacques Marie Mage sunglasses on the show, including a custom crystal-brown pair. You can’t buy the bespoke design, but the $795 limited-edition, handcrafted-in-Japan “Enzo” is available until it sells out. “You will not see a name, initials, or icon on the temples of the Ferrari of sunglasses — aptly inspired by Enzo Ferrari, the maker of his namesake mechanical masterpiece,” says Enamorado of Harper’s Bazaar. “What you will get is precision-crafted, weighty frames and superior lenses that carry an old Hollywood swag, especially as they’re from Los Angeles.”

STORIED SHOES

The John Lobb $1,710 loafer is “the epitome of British craftsmanship.” John Lobb

They resemble regular loafers, but John Lobb’s $1,710 “Lopez” slip-ons feature a handstitched apron and Goodyear-welted construction (so the soles can be replaced if needed). Bootmaker to King Charles, the heritage house makes bespoke, by request and ready-to-wear shoes. “You will know it is a JL only by its signature oval penny strap opening,” says Bazaar’s Enamorado. “It’s the epitome of British craftsmanship.”

CHOICE CARRYALL 

Loro Piana’s $2,225 haute tote, a k a “the Suitcase Stripe Bag.”

Loro Piana’s $2,225 haute tote, a k a “the Suitcase Stripe Bag,” is made of durable waxed cotton canvas topped with “velvety” calfskin leather handles. “Quality is now the trend and this is a future heirloom and something to wear over and over again,” says Vogue’s Lindley.

KEEPSAKE SILK 

Everyone from Queen Elizabeth II to Oprah Winfrey has sported the $375 Hermès carré. Hermes

Connoisseurs consider each $375 Hermès carré — that’s French for “square” — to be a collectible work of art. Everyone from Queen Elizabeth II to Oprah Winfrey has tied on the hand-finished patterned silks. “A Hermès scarf is immediately recognizable for its design and quality and not because it’s broadcasting a price tag,” says Maza of Town & Country. “And isn’t that ultimately what we want in conveying our taste? Not that we’ve spent a lot but that we’ve chosen well.”

LUXE LAMBSKIN 

Loro Piana’s $7,325 leather shirt called the “Erica.” Loro Piana

What happens when an Italian legacy label reinterprets the humble denim shirt? It turns into a $7,325 plonge Nappa leather version named “Erica.” “A leather as soft as a knit? Leave it to Loro Piana, the Italian OG of sotto voce eleganza, to have cracked the code,” says Town & Country’s Maza.

PREMIER PURSE

The Row’s $2,060 Slouchy Banana Bag. The Row

A fancy fanny pack of sorts, The Row’s $2,060 Slouchy Banana Bag is an example of how it can cost a lot of money to look simple. Kendall Jenner and Elizabeth Olsen have been sighted running errands with the practical suede-lined calfskin purse. “A favorite for quite some time, the distinctive shape cements its iconic status and immediate recognition amongst the in-the-know luxury shoppers,” says Bazaar’s Enamorado.

PRESTIGE KNIT 

The Row’s $1,950 “Benji” crewneck sweater. The Row

The Row’s $1,950 “Benji” crewneck sweater is like a very expensive hug. Made of heavyweight cashmere, it’s long, loose and forgiving. “In a sea of grey sweaters, this option from The Row will stand up to repeated wear both in style and quality. It’ll be the one you always reach for,” says Vogue’s Lindley. 

ncG1vNJzZmimqaW8tMCNnKamZ2Jlf3R7j21maW9fnru0tcOeZKyslZa5tbSMsJyapKSderTA2KWcZqCfrHq1tMRmqaKbmGLBprjEoKmaqJhivbDDxKtm